Tracing Its Origin
The origins of hand block printing can be traced back to China in the 3rd Century. By the 4th Century, evidence of this technique had been discovered in Egypt and various other Asian countries. From there, it spread to Europe and other parts of the world, evolving with each culture that adopted it.
In India, the art of hand block printing is believed to be over 2000 years old. Rajasthan, in particular, has become synonymous with this craft, thanks to the contributions of communities like the Chippas and Khatris. These communities brought their traditional techniques to Rajasthan, establishing regions such as Bagru, Sanganer, and Barmer as key centers for block printing. These villages have given rise to distinctive prints like Bagru, Sanganeri, and Ajrakh, turning Rajasthan into a major hub for the production and trade of block-printed fabrics.
Design Elements
Hand block printing is characterized by its use of multiple colors, each requiring a separate block. A single design can involve anywhere from two to five blocks, each meticulously carved to align perfectly with the others. This multi-step process increases both the time and cost of production but results in rich, detailed patterns that are highly prized.
In Rajasthan, specific regions are known for their unique styles of hand block printing. Barmer, influenced by the Sindh region of Pakistan, is known for its vibrant red designs outlined in blue or black, often depicting trees and flowers. This region produces items like sarees, turbans, and lungis. Sikar and Shekhawat prints from Barmer are also highly regarded.
Bagru and Sanganer are particularly significant in Rajasthan's block printing landscape. Bagru prints are known for their intricate floral motifs and use of black, red, and beige colors, often incorporating different shades of blue, including indigo. Ajrakh prints, predominantly seen in darker shades of red and blue, feature geometric designs. Sanganeri prints, on the other hand, are renowned for their more muted colors and detailed patterns.
Types of Blocks
There are two primary types of blocks used in hand block printing: wooden and metallic.
Wooden Blocks: These come in two types - outlining blocks (rekh) and filling blocks (gadh). Artisans carve these blocks with steel chisels, adding a wooden handle and cylindrical holes to allow air to pass through. Although wooden blocks are cost-effective, they have a limited lifespan, typically lasting for 600-800 meters of printing. To prevent premature cracking, the blocks are soaked in oil for 10-15 days before use.
Metallic Blocks: Made from metal sheets beaten into shape, metallic blocks are more durable than wooden ones. The design is first drawn on a wooden block, then metal strips are cut and hammered onto it. Despite being more expensive and time-consuming to produce, metallic blocks offer greater longevity.
How It’s Done
Hand block printing encompasses several techniques: direct block printing, resist printing, and discharge printing.
Direct Block Printing: In this method, the fabric (usually cotton or silk) is bleached and dyed, except when a lighter tint is desired. Carved blocks are then used to apply patterns to the fabric. The Bagru print is a notable example of this technique.
Resist Printing: Here, areas of the fabric that should not be dyed are covered with a resist mixture of resin and clay. After dyeing, the fabric is washed to reveal the pattern, which appears as a ripple effect where the dye has seeped through cracks in the resist. Ajrakh prints are often created using this method.
Discharge Printing: This technique involves dyeing the entire fabric and then using chemicals to remove dye from specific areas, which are subsequently recolored.
After the printing process, artisans sprinkle fine sawdust on the wet dye to prevent smudging, ensuring crisp, clean patterns.
Hand Block Printing Today
Despite its intricate and time-consuming nature, hand block printing faces challenges from modern, more efficient printing methods. The lack of skilled artisans and the labor-intensive process add to these challenges. However, efforts to raise awareness and encourage the youth of Rajasthan to learn and preserve this traditional craft are underway.
Modernization presents another hurdle, as contemporary printing techniques are more accessible, cost-effective, and less labor-intensive. Yet, the growing demand for block-printed fabrics has sparked renewed interest in this ancient technique. By blending traditional methods with contemporary designs, hand block printing continues to evolve, ensuring its place in modern fashion while preserving its rich cultural heritage.
Shop Block-Printed Styles
Hand block printed clothing remains popular, with designers offering exquisite pieces. These can be found at outlets like Fabdia, showcasing the timeless appeal and artistry of hand block printing.